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The far northern region of the old
Transvaal – now Limpopo Province – was relatively unscathed by the first year
or so of the Anglo Boer War. Only
during Kitchener’s attempts at bringing hostilities to a close by means of
his “scorched earth” policy, and the gathering of the last few commandos in
this region, did the war move into our area.
Ironically, this relatively
unknown and unimportant part of the province, the Zoutpansberg, saw events that
involved many – if not most – of the British Empire’s forces in a series of
skirmishes (or blatant murders) and that left a legacy of accusations
levelled against Britain by Australia.
It is interesting that, as recently as 2002, two more books were published
by Australians: Nick Blezinski’s
“Shoot straight you bastards” and Bill Woolmore’s “Breaker Morant of the
Bushveldt Carbineers”. The classic
Australian film produced in 1979 and starring Edward Woodward carries the
following text on the cover, “A true story of injustice and the horror of
war. One of the most acclaimed
Australian movies ever made!” While
Australia and Britain still debate the “injustice” of Australian officers
arrested by British troops, court martialled, sentenced to death, executed by
a detachment of the Carmeron Highlanders and buried in the same grave, we are
left with momentums, graves and other evidence of these atrocities committed
toward South African and German commando members, civilians and children. Approximately 36 known murders took place
in this region during the period.
It is against this background that
the Zoutpansberg Skirmishes Route has developed. The tour starts at Lalapanzi Hotel on the N1, south of Louis
Trichardt and following the 1903 map of the Zoutpansberg (by Henri Betroud),
travels about 16km to the Pioneer Cemetry of the Cooksley, Kleinberg, Menne
and Adendorff families. The old
Cooksley homestead still stands and some of the trees that made up Lovedale Park
are still there. Tour Guide Charles Leach
tells interesting anecdotes of the role played by the Cooksleys and their
sons-in-law during the Bushveld Carbineers saga and in the history of the
day.
Close to Lovedale Park is the site
of the original portable steel Fort Edward, base of both A and B Squadrons of
the BVC. Details are told at the iron
grave markers of the troopers – including Trooper van Buuren – originally
buried there. A most fascinating
story, with two stores behind the main story, is told at the monument of
constable William Eagle, (died 10 October, 1908) the only North American
Indian to serve in the old Transvaal police!
Plans are being considered to establish a comprehensive tourist info
centre at this very historic site!
The tour then proceeds about two
kilometres away to the original Sweetwaters Hotel of Charlie Bristow. Sadly, the Hotel is no longer open,
because surely there would be no better place than the old saloon in which to
be told about the notorious Captain ‘Bulela’ Taylor whose ‘spirit’ may well
be in the shadow next to you! The old
buildings are in remarkably good condition, due to the concern of the present
owner, Poog Henning, and quaint signs mark the Saloon, Shop, Capt. Taylor’s
Rooms, the Cmdt Beyers Piano Room and others. Delightful stories are told of the wiley Cmdt. Beyers and the
Union Jack that Mrs Bristow was sewing and the near disaster (or Interrupted
Melody) in the Piano Room!
Next stop is just up the road at
the monument to the van Staden family.
The father and both his sons – the younger, about 12 years old and
dying of fever – were shop by a firing squad of the BVC.
It is difficult to understand why
Trooper Botha (a ‘Joiner’) actually requested permission to shoot the ailing
youngster!
The next stop is about four
kilometres further at the Alexis Thomas Hydro Electric mill. Plans are afoot to renovate the building –
and its lovely Oregon pine floors – and use it as a Tourism office. It is interesting that Elim Hospital had
electricity long before the town of Louis Trichardt! Could the Thomas family rightly claim that
they were the longest (50 year!) private suppliers of electricity in South
Africa?
The short drive to the house of
Col. Adolf Schiel at Rossbach passes through the national monument of Lemana
College – established by the Swiss Mission at its present site in 1906 and
named after the view of the early morning mist in the nearby Levubu valley
that reminded them of the Lake Geneva.
The beautiful stately church at Lemana, built by the expert church
builder, Metzenen, is well worth seeing.
The historic home of the Schiel
family with its fortified veranda walls, complete with recesses for canons,
commands a fine view over the Great Spelonken, which so nearly became the
realization of Joao Albasini’s Colony of Santa Luiz! The house is also earmarked for
renovation, and a lovelier setting for a weekend getaway could hardly be
found! The original Lemana College
building, with its amazing architecture, is on this site and also due for renovation
before the 2006 centenary. It will
certainly be a most amazing sight to see those enormous sliding doors move
again! Please note that the cycads
around these buildings have also been micro-chipped.
The stories of the Schiel family’s
involvement in the Anglo Boer War and the likelihood of Mrs. Schiel’s affair
with Handrock (sic) of the BVC are all fascinating.
The tour heads back towards
Lalapanzi Hotel and the last stop is on the farm Vliegenpan. It is here, we believe, that the Rev.
C.A.D. Heese of the Berlin Mission Society was murdered, together with his
driver. All logical evidence points
to the BVC, and in particular, to Handcock as the murderer. This act was the last straw that led to
the arrest and subsequent court martial and execution of Australian officers
Morant and Handcock. Kaizer Wilhelm
was not impressed by the murder of German citizens in South Africa, and to
quote one commentator, “In the matter of war, it is most important that no
one comes who was not invited!” Did
Kitchener also read that comment?
The battle of Vliegenpan took
place in the valley just beyond the rocky ridge of the Spelonken, where Cmdt.
Beyers had his men so perfectly placed.
The superior British Force was certainly not expecting Beyers to be
there and they were totally unprepared for the ensuing attack which drove
them all the way back to Dwarsrivier.
The battle scene is being captured on canvas by a local artist and
will soon be on display at the Lalapanzi Hotel Skirmishes Museum.
The tour arrives back at the hotel
at about 4:30 just in time for a cup of tea (or a cold one!) and a lot of
talk about the emotions played upon during the day. By prior arrangement, the flamboyant Prof. Louis Changuine can
be prevailed upon to present a slide show which places yet another cherry on
the top of a most interesting and unique tour!
The route can easily be tailored
to include other points of interest, such as the Elim Hospital Museum, the
Piet Otto Heritage Agricultural Collection and the nearby Valdezia monuments
and graves.
For more information the following
people can be contacted:
Lalapanzi Hotel – Inga or Marius Tel: 015 516 5455 or 082 494 1155
Charles Leach – Tour Guide Tel: 015 516 1466 (w); 015
556 3407 (h); 083 228 3874
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